Sunday lunch in Milan - Osteria Del Binari

Sunday lunch is a tradition in Italy, one that we've adopted whole heartedly and plan to continue when we return to Australia.  If not lunching at home, families gather at the local osteria, trattoria or ristorante, which raises a question we've puzzled over many times - what is the difference between these three venues?

The answer it seems is largely historical.  In the past a ristorante was considered the most formal dining option, with white-clothed tables, professional serving staff including a host and sommelier, an innovative menu, not just regional dishes but something a little more refined, and therefore the price was more expensive.  A trattoria was more likely to be a smaller, family run establishment with a more homey ambience offering traditional regional dishes, a good hearty meal for a medium price.  An osteria was originally similar to a travellers' inn and was usually positioned close to transport links where people could stop for a drink with a simple rustic meal on offer.  Thus it was the 'cheap and cheerful' option for a quick meal.  In our experience these definitions no longer exist, as our recent lunch at Osteria Del Binari illustrates.

For our first meal in Milan, back in December 2012, Stefano took me to Sunday lunch at Osteria Del Binari on via Tortona.  Since then we've eaten there several times because the food is reliably good and because it is so very Milanese - hidden, elegant and slightly old fashioned in style and service.

As we start to say our goodbyes to Milan, we visited Osteria Del Binari one last time.  Elisabetta, a friend of Stefano's who he met at the office, joined us on a beautiful sunny afternoon for a traditional Milanese pranzo della domenica.  As always at this osteria, we were greeted with a complimentary glass of prosecco.  Crudities with oil and pate arrived, again complimentary, so we could sip and nibble while making our selection from the menu.

Stefano ordered a homemade pasta dish, "pasta al torchio con farina di castagne al ragu di selvaggina", which was a delicious pasta made with chestnut flour and a game meat ragu.  Although Elisabetta isn't Milanese she chose the city's favourite, "cotoletta alla milanese con patate novelle agli aromi" which was a very large veal cutlet with roasted herb potatoes.  I ordered the other favourite Milanese dish, "ossobuco con risotto alla milanese", in fact I've ordered it every time we've been to Osteria Del Binari.  The servings were large, but the dishes were so fresh and delicious that we cleaned our plates and agreed with Elisabetta when she concluded that it was one of the best meals she's eaten in Milan.  And thanks to Elisabetta's thoughtful discussion with the sommelier, a bottle of Barbera from the Piedmont region complemented our dishes perfectly.

Dessert was a selection of ricotta, chocolate and lemon torte, and a not very photogenic but absolutely delicious, caramel tarte tartin.  

Elisabetta, Stefano and I enjoying a sunny Sunday lunch.

We relaxed and took our time chatting and enjoying the sunny corner looking out onto the courtyard.  A perfect Sunday afternoon in Milan.

So what is the difference between a ristorante, trattoria  and an osteria?  As you've probably guessed, it is a question which still puzzles us, especially when we eat at Osteria Del Binari.

Where we ate:

Osteria Del Binari CLICK HERE

via Tortona 1

The price was about 40E per person - excellent value.  

Cross the pedestrian bridge over the railway lines beside Porta Genova station.  Via Tortona is on the left.  Don't be concerned about the area, although it looks ordinary it is perfectly safe.  During Design Week via Tortona buzzes as the hidden design studios which line this street open their shutters and invite the world inside.  

Prossima volta dal Bormio.

Vigevano for risotto?

Vigevano is a small city only 30 minutes by train from Milan's Porto Genova station.  It should be much more famous than it is.

The Piazza Ducale in Vigevano is recognized as one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy.

Arcades of arches surround the piazza, providing a lovely shady walkway and a relaxing spot to enjoy a leisurely coffee in one of the many cafes.

The internal grounds of  Castello Sforzesco.

During the 15th century the Piazza Ducale was built to form a noble entrance to the Castello Sforzesco.  In medieval times, Vigevano was an important strategic centre coveted by the Sforza and Visconti families. The castle, including the stables designed by Leonardo da Vinci, and the huge covered roadway which provided the Duke of Milan with a sheltered escape route, maintain their grand proportions today and are beautifully maintained.
For more historical information about the city's history CLICK HERE.

Now the castle complex includes several museums and galleries, while the old roads and tunnels continue to provide pedestrian access through the city.  

A small Shoe Museum occupies one of the long halls in the castle.  It describes another facet of Vigevano's history. During the last century, particularly after World War II, the city was a hub for shoe design and manufacturing.

Although Vigevano's monuments and history seem largely undiscovered, this charming city is famous throughout Italy for ...

Rice fields near Vigevano. Image from here

RICE.  Specifically, arborio and carnaroli rice.

The Po plain surrounding Vigevano has been  famous for rice production since 1482 when Leonardo da Vinci was employed by the the Duke of Milan to design a network of irrigation canals to ensure a consistent water supply for food production.  Since then rice has been grown in this area and with it came the staple dish of northern Italy, risotto.  

Stefano loves cooking risotto, so the goal of our visit was to taste risotto in the city which is famous for producing the best quality rice in Italy. But where to eat risotto in Vigevano? 

L'Oca ristorante Vigevano

L'oca Ciuca, a small restaurant off the Piazza Ducale was suggested by a woman at the tourist office. We arrived just before one o'clock and already the colourful front courtyard was full of families enjoying lunch.  Encouraged by the local crowd, we were happy to be seated inside feeling quietly pleased with ourselves as the restaurant recommendation seemed like a winner.

Choosing from the menu was easy.  Risotto made with local Bonarda wine, fresh bortolli beans and topped with grilled goose sausage immediately caught our eyes.  Not only did it feature local produce, but there was a caption below stating that risotto could only be ordered for two and it would take at least 20 minutes to prepare.  Perfect!  We seemed to have found the right place to taste this famous dish.  

Although we didn't order an antipasti course, the Maitre D', concerned that we might starve, arrived at our table with a complimentary appetiser of home-made toast topped generously with goose liver pate'.  What a delicious surprise.  The pate' was sensational, light, creamy and very moreish.  Another lesson learned about how seriously Italians take their food - restaurant patrons shouldn't wait in hunger.

Stefano's risotto verdict?

Perfetto! He was delighted to discover that this risotto was cooked with a light red wine giving it a slightly pink colour, which although tasty, wasn't photogenic. We learned that Bonarda grapes are grown in the hills around Pavia, so not only did Stefano discover a new risotto recipe, but he is now planning a weekend drive to explore another wine growing region close to Milan.  Yes, he was just a little excited!  

And so was I. After eating such a hearty lunch we decided to take a stroll before catching the train back to Milan.  We passed several gelaterias on the main piazza, but none seemed quite right.  Then we turned down one of the smaller side streets and discovered a local crowd enjoying the sunshine with gelato cones in hand.  Of course we had to stop.

Gelateria Susy
Corso Vittorio Emanuelle II 33
Vigevano
For more reviews CLICK HERE

Taste test summary
Gelateria Susy doesn't sound very Italian, but their gelato tastes autentico.  The nutty flavours are dotted with large crunchy bits just as I've come to expect at the best gelaterias in Italy.  I was tempted by the peanut crunch, but in an effort to maintain a rigorous taste comparison, I chose the standard nocciola flavour which was very good, as was the caffe'.   It was an excellent combination and I must add that the wafer cones were possibly the best I've tried.

Gelati ranking ****
Worth walking off the main square to find this spot.

Sue and Tim back in Milan after their day in Vigevano.

This week our friends, Sue and Tim, had a spare day while visiting Milan, so we suggested that they visit Vigevano.  Like us, they returned raving about this delightfully, undiscovered town. So if you find yourself in Milan and you feel like escaping the crowds, jump on a train to this little city which should be much more famous than it is, but perhaps then its unique charm would be lost.

Questa settimana il tempo a Milano ha cambiato. Autunno ha arrivato.  Ci vediamo prossima volta.

Backtracking to Varenna

Varenna on Lake Como is an easy day trip from Milan.  From Central station, the fastest way to get there is to catch a train to this pretty hillside village, positioned halfway up the lake.

In the past we've passed through Varenna, rushing down the narrow lanes to catch one of the numerous ferries to the other towns around Lake Como. Occasionally, while waiting for a ferry, we've had time to wander along the lakefront path known as 'Lovers' Way'. Having caught glimpses of a pretty town square up the cobblestone lanes, we've often vowed to return. 

A few weeks ago we made our first attempt to explore Varenna.  Unfortunately, just as we left Milan dark clouds gathered and then burst the moment we stepped off the train.  We dashed from the train station, through the pouring rain, to a rather ordinary looking main square where we grabbed a very quick bowl of pasta. After waiting for the rain to clear, we gave up and dashed to catch the next train back to Milan. A speed-record breaking trip to Varenna.  But we were determined...

What a difference the sun makes!
We returned to Varenna for a second visit and this time the main square was picture perfect. A small market provided amusement for the many tourists who were visiting as part of a vintage car tour. (The pale blue VW in the photo below, looks very similar to my first car which was almost vintage back in 1981!)

Although it was tempting to hang around reminiscing, as we watched the not-so-old cars squeeze through the narrow streets, we had other plans in mind. The weather was ideal for a stroll through the gardens of Villa Monastero.

This is the fourth garden that we've visited along the shores of Lake Como.  Although the views across the lake were beautiful, the garden was disappointing as it was a little overgrown in comparison to the others we've seen.  The extensive and perfectly manicured gardens of Villa Carlotta at Tremezzo, Villa Melzi at Bellagio or the magnificent Villa Balbianello, set a very high standard which Villa Monastero didn't quite match.  It seems we've become 'garden snobs'!  However, we didn't leave Varenna disappointed.

A garden walk was the perfect preparation for what turned out to be our best discovery in Varenna, Il Cavatappi.  This tiny restaurant is ranked number one  on Trip Advisor as the best restaurant in Varenna and deservedly so! 

It is easy to feel that you've stumbled across something rather special when you're seated in a restaurant with only five small tables inside, and outside, just two more.  The double clothed tables, set with crystal glasses and polished silver, hinted that we might be in for a treat and we were.  Fresh lightly seasoned grilled vegetables were served as an antipasto, followed by two dishes of home-made pasta; gnocchi with a 'three tomato sauce' for me, and ravioli stuffed with lake fish for Stefano.  Friendly service, excellent wine and very reasonable prices made this one of the most memorable meals that we've eaten in Italy. 

Buonissimo!

Our day spent backtracking to Varenna had a surprisingly delicious ending.

Mmmm arrivederci. E' il tempo per pranzo.  

We recommend - (Apparently bookings are usually required.)
Il Cavatappi
Via XX Settembre
Varenna
39 0341 815349

Putting Como behind us

This week spring arrived early in Milan with blue skies and temperatures in the mid-teens. On Sunday we decided to make most of the weather with a day trip to Como.

Most people arrive in Como by train and then quickly leave to catch a ferry up the lake.  But Stefano had read about a walk we could do from the top of the funicular railway.  So on this perfect spring day we turned our backs on Lago Como and joined the queue for the train up the mountain.

The funicular takes you to the small town of Brunate which was a very popular holiday resort in 1894 when the railway was built.  Many of the original villas still remain, although not always in pristine condition, giving this mountain resort town a slightly dishevelled air.

From Brunate we followed the rocky, cobblestoned path further up the mountain to the village of San Maurizo.  Along the way we spotted several drifts of snow, reminding us that it was only a few weeks ago when it seemed that the winter would never end.

Then at 1000 metres we stopped for lunch at  Baita Carla.  Although we knew nothing about this small mountain restaurant, we were pleasantly surprised by the authentic, home-made mountain food.  Once again we enjoyed a delicious Sunday lunch surrounded by local families.

To walk off a little of the homemade ravioli and pizzoccheri we kept hiking up the hill for another half an hour.

Although it was tempting to stop and join the locals snoozing in the sunshine, especially after the vino rosso at lunch, we kept walking enjoying the fresh mountain air and scenery, before turning around and heading back to the funicular.

Back down at the lake we strolled along the shore before catching the train home to Milan.

We loved our day on the mountain above Como.  We're already planning to return to follow the Dorsale Triangolo Larino track, a two day walk down to Bellagio.  By turning our backs on Como and the lake, we've happily discovered more reasons to return.

Benveuto primavera!
Check

Public displays of affection

Last week I had coffee with an Australian friend, Emily, who is studying in Milan. As we swapped stories about confusing Italian verb tenses, where to find the best chocolate spoons in Northern Italy, and where NOT to sit when you go to a calcio (football) match at San Siro, I mentioned a quirky Milanese bar, Wineria, that I'd read about online. 

Stefano thought it was more for the 'younger set' so I suggested that Emily might like to give it a try on a Wednesday night with her friends from Uni. Why a Wednesday night? Well at Wineria, on Wednesdays in November and December, the first glass of wine is free, well almost free, you pay with a kiss.  Here's how it works...(If you don't see a YouTube clip here just google Wineria Milano on YouTube. It will make you smile.)

Promoting wine and love, how very Italian!  And public displays of affection, well that's even more Italian! A few weeks ago we visited one of Italy's most romantic cities, Verona. So romantic, in fact, that public displays of affection (PDAs), in one particular area of the city, are now strictly controlled by the local council. But more about that later.

Stefano's sister Monica, brother-in-law Paul, and their son Xavi, had been staying with us in Milan, so they joined us for a long weekend in Verona. Paul and Monica have visited Italy many times always accompanied by their classic guidebook, Earl Steinbicker's Walks of Italy.  Following Earl's suggested route, Paul led the way through the pretty cobblestone streets of Verona.  Although our first day was chilly and grey, Verona still sparkled.

Our apartments were just around the corner from the beautiful Piazza delle Erbe. Although we ate out at lunchtime, we were very glad to stay in and cook dinner together each night, only venturing into the cold night air for yes, you guessed it, gelato!

Over our long weekend the weather brightened and we enjoyed some gloriously, crisp autumn weather which was perfect for exploring Verona's Roman Arena.

After enjoying the views and imagining what it would be like to attend an opera there in the summer, we took to the trail again to complete the recommended sights on Steinbicker's walk.

We faithfully followed Paul and his guide over our two days of walking around Verona till there was only one site left to visit - casa da Giulietta.  There we discovered that Juliet's house is now subject to strict controls by council to manage all public displays of affection.

The tunnel leading to the courtyard of casa di Giulietta is heavily graffited with the usual hearts and initials, and in the courtyard, just beside the famous balcony, a metal grill is filled with small padlocks. These new traditions of announcing one's undying love have been officially sanctioned by the local council in an attempt to manage the less attractive method of publicly displaying affection by sticking love letters to the walls of Juliet's house with chewing gum. To combat such sticky PDAs the council employs guards to police the courtyard and issue fines of 500 Euros to anyone writing on the house or pasting anything sweetly sticky on the walls.

The council controls seem to be working as the house looked clean. The guards on duty kept a watchful eye on all visitors queuing to fondle Juliet's right breast, another strange tradition that's evolved at this Italian home of love. So after a quick wander through the courtyard leaving all breasts, paddlocks and grafitti walls untouched, there was only one more thing to do before we caught the train back to Milano.  As it was Domenica, we had to follow the Italian tradition of pranzo con la famiglia. 

Our thanks to Monica, Paul and Xavi for wonderful company, great apartment selection and trusty guiding through the streets of Verona.  Thanks also to Steinbicker for another great walk in Italy.

Ci vediamo prossima volta a Parma.