#NoFilter Milan: Window on the city

Christmas window display, Dolce & Gabbana on via Della Spiga

Milan is a great place to go window shopping.  It's flat so very easy on the feet, has a gelateria on almost every corner for refreshment as you stroll, and it has some of the most beautiful shop windows in all of Europe.  The place in Milan that is most famous for stunning displays is the aptly named Quadrilatero d'Oro, the Golden Rectangle. This little area of interconnected streets is where all the main fashion labels of Italy, and many from abroad, have their flagship stores.  Here you can see elegant displays of the latest fashions in almost every window, but it is the displays of Dolce & Gabbana on via Della Spiga that take first prize. 

The windows of Dolce & Gabbana go beyond simply showing their exquisite clothes and accessories as they are planned to tell a story of the season.  Whether it's a lavish Christmas banquet, or the scent of spring from the balcony of a Sicilian family home, their displays produce spontaneous reactions of wonder and surprise.

Window shopping is a popular pastime with the Milanese.  After around 4pm it’s a common practice for them to spruce up and step out for an afternoon passeggiata.  Most afternoons, but especially on the weekend, the streets fill with well-dressed Milanese meandering along and stopping to study the latest fashion trends on display.  

The red cross, a symbol of Milan in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele

Another popular place for window shopping is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, one of the oldest undercover shopping malls in Europe.  Whenever I visit the centre of the city, I can't resist a quick stroll through it, not just for the window displays but because of the building itself.  This beautiful arcade with its arched glass domed roof and brilliant mosaic floor was finished just after the unification of Italy.  It is filled with symbols of nationalism and hope for the new country. The shop interiors are equally beautiful and the shop assistants will greet you warmly without pressuring you to buy.  CLICK HERE to read more about the history.
But while Milan is known throughout the world for its haute couture and cutting-edge design stores, there is another lesser known and less glamorous aspect to its shopping that nonetheless adds richly to the fabric of Milanese life. Throughout Milan there is a register of shops of historic value which continue to operate and serve the people of Milan for their everyday needs, like the Ferramenta hardware store which has been run by the same family since 1927.  The little brass plaque beside the front door indicates that this shop is registered on the Bottega Storico list of shops and businesses that have historical value.  I have walked past this old store, located in the design district near via Tortona, many times and it never fails to catch my eye with its beautifully proportioned old windows and eclectic display of everyday items. 

Ferramenta Pietro Vigano, via Montevideo, 8, 20144 Milano

A few weeks ago I went for an afternoon stroll along Corso Vercelli.  This wide boulevard, quite close to Milan's Parco Sempione, is lined with beautiful shops where Milanese of all ages can be seen coming out for their afternoon passeggiata to enjoy browsing along the shop-fronts.  Not only are there branches of the city stores, but there are also some lovely upmarket boutiques.  However, it was down a little side street that I was reminded of the other world of shopping and life in Milan.

Shoes always catch my eye, and down this street it was Antonio's tiny shoe repair shop that stopped me in my tracks.  It is no wider than a pair of French doors and I found him sitting in his sunny shop window carefully repairing a pair of beautiful Italian shoes obviously worn down by their owner's daily passeggiata. 

Antonio, il ciabattino.

When I stopped and asked to take his photo, "Posso fare una foto signore, per favore?" not only did Antonio happily pose, he then proceeded to give me a little tour of all the machines in his tiny shop and to demonstrate how each worked in the process of repairing shoes.

It's these moments of window shopping in Milan that I enjoy the most, the unexpected friendly conversations. The Milanese have a reputation for being snobbish but I've always found them to be helpful and charming if you initiate a conversation. Practising a little Italian is a great way to break the barriers, but then you'll often find that many of the younger generations will speak English, albeit tentatively and with many apologies that their English is not good. I always reassure them that it will be better than my Italiano!

Are you puzzled by the #NoFilter Milan title to this post?
When we were invited by London Airports to take part in their #NoFilter Milan project, we were intrigued by the concept. This is the fourth city where the project has been conducted. Previous #NoFilter projects have been run in Dublin, Geneva and Madrid and they provide a wonderful collection of ideas and photos showcasing these cities.

For #NoFilter Milan, ten bloggers from Milan were invited to post an entry about an interesting aspect of their city that gives the reader an authentic experience. The photos included cannot be filtered in anyway thus giving a true impression of the real city, rather than a 'doctored' one. Well, as we take photos on a very small Canon camera, and a rather old iphone 4, our photos are never filtered so it was very easy to accept this challenge. We hope you've enjoyed strolling along as we've peeked into some of the windows on Milan. We are looking forward to reading the many posts from other bloggers delving into the many different parts of this city that we've grown to love.

The project will be judged by Sara Rosso from the blog Ms Adventures in Italy. Sara is a an American writer and photographer who moved to Italy in 2003. Her blog is a wonderful collection of Italian recipes, beautiful photographs and useful travel tips for exploring Italy. It is a great resource for travellers wanting to discover the less well known areas of Italy.

For participating in this project we will receive Amazon vouchers to the value of 65Euros.

Tips for taking photos that don't need filters

1. If you glimpse someone of interest, stop and ask permission to take a photo. Rarely will someone say no and through the conversation that follows you may discover an interesting story or little snippet of history
2. Light is everything. Interesting lighting makes an interesting photo. Be prepared to try different positions and angles to capture the light illuminating your subject in interesting ways.
3. Use the different focus periods on your camera, eg the night setting to take photos in the dark.
4. With an autofocus camera often framing in direct light and then focusing and snapping your subject in a lower light tricks the camera into capturing better light.

Ci vediamo.  Prossima volta in Venezia e Londra.

*** The results of the #NoFilterMilan blogger project are listed HERE  If you're planning a trip to Milan have a look at these great blogs.  So much to discover in this great city.  

From the Duomo - A series of sightseeing walks in Milan

Soon it will be visitor season in Milan, so I thought I'd post some ideas for walking around this under-rated city. As life in Milan radiates out from the Duomo, these walks will always start from this magnificent cathedral.

Each of From the Duomo walks will include:

• places to visit:
• suggestions for where to eat:
• public bathrooms AND
• a recommended gelato stop, or two.

FROM THE DUOMO Walk No. 1.
Milan's most famous sites:  The Duomo, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, La Scala and Gallerie d'Italia.

Start - THE DUOMO

Stop 1. Piazza del Duomo & Stop 2.  La Galleria

The first place in Milan that Stefano took me was to the Duomo.  Although I've seen it many times since that winter morning, its beauty never fails to surprise me.  The exterior is luminescent, but the interior is also incredible, especially the magnificently patterned marble floor.  Once you've taken your photos outside, queue up at the main entrance to wander through the cathedral, which the Milanese proudly claim is the fourth largest in the world.  To explore the interior at a leisurely pace allow at least 30 minutes, longer if you want to follow an audio-tour, or visit any of the Duomo museums. CLICK HERE for a brief history of the Duomo.
If the weather is fine and not too hot, a visit to the roof terraces of the Duomo is a must.  The roof terraces open at 9.00 and ticket sales close at 18.00.  Tickets are sold from a booth outside the Duomo, on the left-hand side. You need at least 30 minutes to enjoy the roof of the Duomo, but you can stay as long as you wish.

FREE entry to the Duomo.  
CLICK HERE  for opening times and tour information.
Audio tours can be purchased inside the Duomo 7€ (approx).
Roof terrace ticket information 7€ to climb the stairs, or 12€ for the lift  CLICK HERE.

TIPS FOR VISITING THE DUOMO:

•  Cover your shoulders and your legs to below the knee - that advice is for men and women. The Duomo guards are very strict about these dress requirements and you will be turned away if your dress code doesn't meet these standards.
• If you don't want to buy a children's book, or a string bracelet etc., avoid eye-contact with the many trinket sellers in the piazza in front of the Duomo.
• Arrive early to avoid long queues for tickets to the roof terraces and for the clearest views of Milan.
• On a summer's day visit, the roof terraces first and then venture into the Duomo for a wander in the cooler air.
• Allow between one and two hours to visit the Duomo.

Covering up to enter the Duomo.

2nd Stop - GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II

As you face the Duomo, the arched entry of Galleria Vittoria Emanuele II is on your left.
This Galleria is a beautiful, covered shopping arcade which is one of the oldest in Europe.

Spinning on the bull's balls - Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II

Guiseppe Mengoni, the architect of this wonderful building, tragically fell to his death just days before his creation opened to the public in 1877.  A strange custom has developed as a result of this tragedy. Look for the mosaic of the bull near the centre of the arcade.  Supposedly, this is the spot where Mengoni fell. To ward off bad luck, those passing through the arcade should detour to spin on the balls of the bull.  But, before you join those spinning for better luck, CLICK HERE to make sure you spin in the right direction! 

CLICK HERE for a brief history of this famous shopping arcade. 

Walk straight through the Galleria to the Piazza della Scala.

 3rd Stop - The MUSEUM of LA SCALA

Piazza La Scala and the theatre

From the Galleria you will exit into the Piazza della Scala, another important Milanese meeting place. Across the square is the rather unassuming facade of another of Milan's most famous buildings, La Scala.  In the centre of this square is a monument dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. The smaller statues, which surround Leonardo, symbolise his talent as an architect, engineer, painter and sculpture.

The stage of La Scala

It's worth visiting the museum of La Scala just to see the incredible interior of this famous theatre.  Tickets to the museum include a view of the theatre, even when rehearsals are in progress.  While I found the rest of the museum moderately interesting, the opportunity to wander through the lavish entrance halls and to see the theatre are alone worth the admission price.  Information is provided in English and Italian but an audio tour was not available when I visited in early 2014.
Admission 6€
Open daily from 9.00 - 12.00 and from 1.30 - 5.00.
CLICK HERE for more information.

TIPS FOR VISITING LA SCALA 

• Museum ticket sales are closed for lunch between 12 noon and 1.30pm everyday. 
• An hour should be plenty of time to see the museum, unless you are an opera buff.
• It is possible to get tickets to performances at La Scala without booking months ahead.  CLICK HERE for further information.

LUNCHTIME - Two suggestions
Plan your morning of sightseeing by aiming to be seated for lunch by 12.45.  The Milanese eat lunch between 1-2pm so the bars and restaurants become packed very quickly. To avoid the crowds start a little earlier as you may find that some restaurants no longer serve lunch after 2.30pm.

Pasta of the day at Cafe Pierre

Pierre Cafe, via Broletto, 15.

To enjoy a deliciously fresh bowl of pasta, or a panini for around 4.50€, eat with the office-workers in the small, traditional cafes/bars along via Broletto.  Turn left down the side of La Scala into the pedestrian street, via Filodrammatici. Then turn left again into via dei Bossi and at the end, turn left again into via Broletto.  When I ate at Cafe Pierre, the daily specials menu included several pastas and paninis for less than 5€. You may notice that many of the office workers pay with a ticket rather than cash, as many Italian companies provide lunch vouchers for approx 5€ per day.  This keeps the prices down in this part of the city. There is no extra charge for sitting at a table, although the locals often eat standing at the bar. All the bars along this street offer similar daily lunch specials.  

deCanto Cafe, Gallerie d'Italia

deCanto, Piazza della Scala
If you would prefer more of a restaurant meal, I recommend this lovely cafe which is part of the Gallerie d'Italia, the final stop on this itinerary.  deCanto offers a simple light lunch for less than 10€.  I've enjoyed a delicious vegetable pie and a cappucino in the beautiful dining room looking into the modern art gallery.  Although the meal was a little more expensive, the food and service was excellent.  Just across the road, the cafe of La Scala charges three times this amount for a light lunch, so I consider deCanto to be great value.  

4th Stop - GALLERIE D'ITALIA

Gallerie d'Italia, Piazza della Scala

On the street adjacent to La Scala is the Gallerie d'Italia, my favourite art gallery in Milan.  Not only does the building, which was once the Banca Commerciale Italiana, have one of the most beautiful interiors of any public building in Milan, but the gallery houses an extensive collection of artworks from the 19th and 20th centuries, some of which depict historic views of Milan. After entering the gallery go downstairs to the cloakroom and collect a free audioguide.  I suggest you allow at least one and a half hours to enjoy this surprisingly beautiful gallery.

Admission FREE and FREE audioguides.
Open Tuesday - Sunday from 9.30am -7.30pm.

CLICK HERE for more information.

GELATO STOP

After a full day of sightseeing you deserve a gelato! On Piazza della Scala turn left and walk along via Santa Margherita to number 16 the GROM gelato shop.  Although I usually prefer smaller gelaterias, GROM gelato is consistently delicious.  I can personally recommend two of their classic flavours, nocciola and torrincino, and they also offer seasonal flavours each month. A small cone, which always includes two flavours, costs 2.50€.
Grom gelato is rated gluten free by the Italian Celiac Association.

PUBLIC TOILETS

In the centre of Milan, near the Duomo, there are public toilets beside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele.  Enter the doors of Caffe Motta and climb the stairs following the signs to Cafe Ciao.  Public toilets are on the second floor.  They cost 50 cents and there is a change machine.

All the museums have free toilets, as do the cafes and bars listed above. 

ARRIVEDERCI!
That brings us to the end of the first post in this new series.  I hope you enjoyed these ideas for places to visit and suggestions for where to eat in Milan.

Leave a comment if you have a suggestion to improve this itinerary or a tip to share.

Ciao, ciao, ciao!