Monday, 16 February 2015

Why we love skiing in Bormio

As our date to leave Milan looms closer, we visited the Italian Alps one more time for ten days of skiing.
View of the mountain and the town of Bormio from our apartment.
We considered trying somewhere new like the Dolomites, but in the end we couldn't resist returning to Bormio.

Outside the apartment on our second morning after a fresh snowfall.
This time we rented an apartment which turned out to be a great decision.  Not only was it an easy ten minute walk through town to the main ski lifts, but it was cosy and very comfortable.  Even better, it was owned by a friendly father and son team, Lucio and Luca. 
Homemade Pizzoccheri!
We learned that Lucio is a great cook.  On Saturday night I answered an unexpected knock on the door of our apartment.  There was Lucio with a pot of steaming, freshly cooked pizzoccheri, the traditional pasta dish served in the Valtellina, which he'd whipped up for his guests.  Having previously enjoyed this hearty cheesey pasta dish in several restaurants of Bormio and Grosio, we were delighted to taste Lucio's creation.  Our verdict - it was the best pizzoccheri we've had, ever! (Okay that's only a score based on three previous tastings).  The following day when we thanked Lucio for such a delicious surprise, he described that his secret ingredient was butter - really fresh local butter bought from a shop on the edge of town where they sell their own dairy produce.  Sadly it looks as though Stefano won't be replicating this recipe at home.
It's these sorts of traditions that continue as part of everyday life in Bormio. Even though it is a busy ski and tourist town, old-fashioned ways of hospitality and generosity still exist.  Like the complimentary shot of grappa to farewell skiers after a lunchtime stop on the slopes for a slice of pizza.
And the delicious krapfen donuts that they still bake in the pasticceria which was too conveniently located along my path back to the apartment after a hard morning of skiing.
While we enjoyed many days skiing the famously long runs on Bormio mountain, we also discovered the neighbouring town of Santa Caterina.
Only a short bus ride up the valley from Bormio, Santa Caterina offered sunny, open runs and some fantastic views of the mountains above the treeline.
Once again we loved visiting Bormio.  This time it was just a little harder to leave as sadly we won't be back next season.  We will miss having the Alps only a short train ride away.  

Arrivederci Bormio.  Speriamo che non sia l'ultima volta.

Where we stayed:
We stayed in this lovely one bedroom apartment which I found on Airbnb CLICK HERE. In the low season apartment rentals in Bormio are well priced.
Transport directions
Regional trains from Milano Centrale to Tirano leave once an hour.  Buses connect with most trains, so the entire journey is only about three and half hours.  Train and bus ticket combined was less than 15E per person one way.


  1. Replies
    1. Thanks Mon and Paul, it was. Lucky with the snow this year.

  2. I would so love to be at that ski resort skiing right now. I'm so jealous! So where is Bormio exactly?

    1. Yes very different weather from the Gold Coast Kathy. Bormio is very close to the Swiss / Italian border in the north of Italy. Only a few hours by train or bus from Milan, so we've enjoyed holidays there in winter and summer.

  3. I've heard a lot about Bormio from friends. Thanks for sharing how to get there without a car...because this is always my to get to some of these places without a train station.

    1. I agree Carrie. We have been limited without a car but Bormio is so easy to get to because the buses up the valley are planned to connect to the Milan train. Really easy and cheap.

  4. Great post Jenny, I liked it. We visited Bormio last year with friends and loved it there too. Did you guys try a bombardino too?

    1. Thanks Danny. We didn't have a bombardino this time but we have before! Memorable.