Thursday 22 January 2015

Madesimo - what a difference a night makes.

Village nestled on Alpe Groppera in the Valchiavenna.
Where to go skiing this year?  Our choice was made when I read this article describing five of the best places to ski in Italy.
Madesimo.  It ticked every box on our wish list - high altitude therefore more reliable snow, a small alpine village but with lots of variety in ski runs, bargain prices for accommodation and an easy transfer service from Milan. 
 
free chauffeur driven Mercedes whisked us from the centre of Milan to the front door of our hotel in less than two hours.  
Albergo Soldanella is a family run hotel right in the middle of town and best of all, only two minutes walk from the main lift.  It proved to be an excellent choice not only because of its position, but mostly because of Barbara, the hotel owner and perfect hostess.
Barbara has been running the hotel since she was twenty.  Yes, you read that correctly, twenty years old.  A Madesimo local, she followed her father's advice and took out a lease on the hotel twenty-five years ago.  Twelve years later, she bought it.  Barbara and her partner Francesco, who is also the chef, have two daughters who work with their parents in this sweet albergo. When we arrived Barbara excitedly explained that she'd had a very busy Christmas as she'd just become a Nonna! After being looked after by Barbara and Francesco for only a week, we felt as though we'd joined their Madesimo family.  
Barbara warned us that the snow was patchy this year.  Last year 10 metres of snow fell in the village, a fifty year record, but this year it was a different story across the Alps. 
While there was enough snow on the mountain to ski, it was icy - reminiscent of the slopes in Australia but without the biting winds, or crowds. 


Although the snow wasn't perfect, we enjoyed our first few days in Madesimo easing ourselves back into the routine of skiing to work up an appetite for the delicious three course dinners every evening.
But then we woke to this view from our balcony.
Madesimo was blanketed in a cover of sparkling white.  Rather than rush up the mountain, we took a stroll along the main street.
After only one night, Madesimo had been transformed into the picture-perfect Italian alpine village we had expected.
Up on the mountain those scratchy sounds of skis on ice were silenced!
And the snow kept falling...
It was still snowing when we said arrivederci e grazie mille Barbara e Francesco per una settimana meravigliosa!
 Our transfer back to Milan wasn't as speedy as when we arrived, nor was it quite as luxurious, but we didn't mind being driven down the mountain in a small bus.
While cars with winter tyres were skidding all over the road causing the local carabinieri to take their gloves off, our friendly bus driver was entertaining us with a commentary about terrible Italian drivers.   
And we were relaxing in the front seats, very glad to know that we were in the safe hands of another Madesimo local.
Ci vediamo.  Prossima volta a Bormio.

Where we stayed and ate, and ate, and ate: 
Albergo Soldanella CLICK HERE
It's not just us who love this little hotel.  CLICK HERE for other reviews.
Bus transport is free from Milano Centrale, Linate and Malpensa aiports during December and January.  CLICK HERE for more information.

If you'd like to see a map to locate Madesimo CLICK HERE.  It is opposite Bormio, at the other end of the Valtellina in a smaller valley called Valchiavenna.

12 comments:

  1. Another lovely trip. Making notes...

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    1. Thanks Fi, it is lovely and popular in summer too.

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  2. I'm really intrigued by this free transport...or even if I had to pay for it. Without a car, I'm a little perplexed about getting to some of these random locations. Possibilities! Thanks for sharing!

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    1. Thanks Carrie. Yes we thought the free transport was too good to be true, but it was for real. The commune offers this service during Dec & Jan, but in Feb & March there is a charge. There are also day bus trips for skiing to Madesimo. We were very glad we didn't drive.

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  3. Stayed at La Soldenella many times in summer and winter and we love it :)

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    1. Thanks for commenting. We'd love to return in summer as I'm sure it would be just as relaxing.

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  4. Still living the dream. Icing on the cake. Italy never ceases to amaze.

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    1. Thank you Gerard and Annie. It was very beautiful after so much snow. A lovely part of northern Italy as it isn't as well known as some of the bigger ski resorts.

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  5. Looks gorgeous Jen! So different to the hot weather we have been having here until today! As Bruce says you have a knack for finding great places to stay!

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    1. Thanks Therese, we really loved our week in Madesimo and the albergo was fabulous. Sounds as though it's been very changeable weather at home. Colder in Milan this year but as yet, no snow.

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  6. Oh I'm so jealous. We are simmering here in Australia with a heat wave and I would love to trade places with you right now! I would to ski in Italy. It is on my ever growing bucket list!

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    1. Kathy we have loved skiing here. This northern part of Italy is worth adding to your bucket list. I'll let you know about the southern part in a couple more months! Sounds as though the weather has been pretty patchy at home. Hot then cooler, then really hot.

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